The dozen or so wineries in the little communities of Sonoita & Elgin are about an hour southeast of Tucson via scenic Hwy. 83. The terrain here is very different from Tucson. No saguaros, but miles of rolling hills, tall grass & cattle herds and if you look closely you may see pronghorn which have been reintroduced to this valley.
Empire Ranch
More than a century before this was wine country, it was cattle country. The biggest ranch was the 100,000 acre Empire Ranch. You can visit what remains of it on your way from Tucson to Sonoita. Volunteers are working to restore the principle residence & out buildings. Inside the main house are simple exhibits with old photographs of the ranch and its ranchers. Definitely worth an hour’s detour.
The Empire Ranch is located in the heart of the 42,000-acre La Cienegas National Conservation Area. Flowing through this preserve is Cienega Creek, a natural riparian zone that shows us what much of this region was like before the White Eyes established “civilization”. Today, Arizona has lost more than 90% of its original perennially flowing rivers and adjacent riparian areas. So visiting here is definitely a look back in time about 150 years.
(From I-10 take Hwy 83 south about 18 miles and turn left onto Empire Ranch Road.)
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[—TAG:h4—]Sonoita & Elgin Wineries
Wineries are fairly new to this part of Southern Arizona. Each winery creates several varietals each year, most of which don’t taste at all like the excellent wines we get from California, Oregon, France, Argentina, or Chili. This is not to say Sonoita & Elgin wines are not as good. It is simply to say they taste different. The climate, soil, and water here are different, so the grapes grown in this region produce unique flavors.
Personally, we have tasted many fine wines from this region and regularly buy a case or two.
Visitors by the thousands come here in tour buses, shuttle vans, and limos. The advantage over driving your own car is you don’t have to be the designated driver and are free to sample all the wine you want. Southern Arizona Guide now offers tours of the Sonoita / Elgin wine country.
Most of the folks who own & operate these small wineries are hard-working farmers and creative wine makers. We don’t know anyone who has gone wine tasting down here who didn’t have a fine day trip experience.
Find out more about the Wineries of Cochise County.
Patagonia
If you have time, and are still sober, take Hwy 82 south from Sonoita for about 12 miles to Patagonia. This is a pleasant little village that time has mostly passed by. The mines and railroad are long gone, but there are other worthwhile attractions.
Stage Stop & Wild Horse
Within the village are several shops along the west side of the main highway through town, including a visitors center with a wealth of local information, including maps to the ghost towns of Harshaw & Washington Camp. The next street east of the main highway is McKeown Avenue where you will find is the Stage Stop Inn (you can’t miss it) and more quaint shops, including Creative Spirit Artists, one of our favorites.
The Inn was remodeled in 2014-15 and offers clean, comfortable rooms. Wild Horse Restaurant is in the Hotel. We’ve dined there several times. Good food & service.
Coffee & Art
Just down the sidewalk from the hotel is the Gathering Grounds. Think of it as a rustic Starbucks. Here you will find good, fresh coffee and pastries and friendly people.
Right near the Gathering Grounds are a couple of splendid shops selling local arts and crafts of considerable beauty and craftsmanship. One is Creative Spirits Artists, a gallery of original arts & crafts by local artists. Another is Global Arts Gallery and Lillian’s Closet. By all means, take your time and wonder around these places. There’s a lot to like here.
Red Mountain Foods
About a block further south is Red Mountain Foods, kinda like a mini Whole Foods.”This friendly grocery store has been a Patagonia institution since 1981, and supplies the community with a full line of quality produce–much of it organic–as well as organic dairy products, meat, fish, dried fruits and nuts, pantry staples, vitamins, household goods, and natural body care products. Red Mountain also carries local grass-fed beef from the San Rafael Valley.”
Heavenly Ovens
About two blocks north of the hotel on McKeown is Ovens of Patagonia, part country store, part bakery. Here you will meet Bonnie, the proprietor. She offers fresh sandwiches, pastries, fudge and ice cream, plus gourmet foods, her unique collection of gifts for the kitchen, and a fine selection of Southern Arizona wines.
Patagonia – Sonoita Creek Preserve – Currently Closed 1/11/2022 due to the pandemic. Check with the link here for more information
The Nature Conservancy has a conservation area just outside of Patagonia that is definitely worthwhile. When we were there in February 2013, they had an active mountain lion in the preserve. We walked along the creek for about a mile, but never saw the elusive cat that had, according to the docents, a few days earlier brought down a young deer nearby.
Paton House. This former residence of Wally & Marion Paton was recently purchased by the Tucson Audubon Society in order to preserve this famous bird watchers’ mecca. The modest home, backyard and adjacent 5 acres abuts the Patagonia – Sonoita Creek Preserve. Over 200 species of birds, including the rare violet crowned hummingbird, have been spotted here. Bonnie Patton Moon has written a book about the legacy of her parents, Journey Home. You’ll have to go there to get one.
Patagonia Lake State Park
Seven miles south of Patagonia is Patagonia Lake State Park with its recreational lake, campgrounds, picnic areas, and hiking trails. Both the Preserve and State Park are excellent for easy to moderate hiking, bird watching, and nature photography.
(To get to the Preserve from the village of Patagonia, take 4th Avenue northeast a few blocks to Pennsylvania Avenue and turn left. Follow the dirt road for a mile or so.)
Dining in Sonoita
Steak Out Restaurant & Saloon at the intersection of Highways 82 & 83. We recommend the Steak Out if you’re in the area and hungry for steak and looking for a little Western nostalgia. Definitely Western. Steaks, ribs, burgers. Live Western music on most weekends.
The Cafe on Highway 82 just east of the intersection of 83 and 82. Lunch is served daily from 11AM to 2PM. Salads, sandwiches, burgers. Dinner is served Thursday – Saturday 5 to 8. Salads, pastas, fish & chips, prime rib and chicken dinners. Plus, check out the specials written on the chalkboard. All very good. The owner/chef is Adam Puckle. His cafe, also known as Puckle’s Place, a local favorite.
The Copper Brothel Brewery is the relatively new kid in town. It is quite popular.
Dining In Patagonia
Velvet Elvis: Definitely recommended! Former AZ governor Janet Napolitano called this simple establishment an “Arizona Treasure”. And it is. Owner Cecilia San Miguel serves delicious calzones, fresh salads, amazing soups, and, above all, the best pizza anywhere.
Wild Horse Restaurant is in the Stage Stop Inn. The Inn and Restaurant have recently (2014-15) been remodeled. Clean, comfortable rooms. Good food.
Lodging in Patagonia
The Duquesne House Bed & Breakfast. Definitely! Comfortable. Splendid patio & gardens.
Circle Z Ranch. If you’re a hiker, birder, and a horseback rider, this guest ranch has it all. All activities and three excellent meals each day are included in the price of your stay. Circle Z has 7 historic, comfortable, Spanish-style adobe guest cottages. They vary from individual rooms to suites with living rooms or entirely private cottages. Circle Z offers special activities for young children and, with 80 horses raised and trained on the Ranch, a horse for every riding ability.
For more information about what to see and do in Cochise County visit our pages here.
