As I stood on the front porch of the Royal Elizabeth Bed and Breakfast, I looked around at the surrounding Downtown Tucson community. I tried to image what it was like when this magnificent Victorian home was built in 1878.
In my imagination, the modern skyline disappeared immediately. Back then, Tucson was comprised of mostly one and occasionally two-story adobe homes and commercial buildings with flat roofs. Most of the homes were barely more than dirt floor hovels. The population was about 7,000. Essentially, Tucson was nothing but a poor, hot, dirty, Mexican town with nothing we would consider today as essentials, such as indoor plumbing, electricity, and telephones.
Of course, the streets were not paved. They would have been very dusty most of the year, and very muddy in the wet seasons. The dominant scent would have emanated from manure.
In 1878, Tucson had only been a part of the United States for less than a quarter century. It had only been 15 years since Tucson was (briefly) the western capitol of the Confederate States of America. The Southern Pacific Railroad would not arrive for another 2 years. And the University of Arizona first class of 32 students in Old Main would be 13 years in the future.
Only 5 years earlier, the U.S. Army had re-located Camp Lowell from the Downtown area a few blocks from the front porch I was standing on to a place 7 miles east by the Rillito River.
Yet it was critically important that the soldiers remain close. It was their responsibility to protect the good citizens of the town and the overland supply trains that made Tucson an important transportation hub. Geronimo and his band of Chiricahua “hostiles” were still a serious threat when this house was built.
However, in 1877, the Tucson City Charter had been adopted and a Mayor and City Counsel elected. Tucson was the capitol of Arizona Territory. Surely the Territory would soon become another state in the Union. The Santa Cruz River flowed year ‘round providing sufficient drinking water for people and their livestock. And everyone knew the railroad would soon arrive and deliver prosperity to their doorsteps.
Former U.S. Army officer, Charles Drake, felt optimistic as he laid the foundation for this fine house. Yet, except for the adobe bricks, almost all the building material and furnishings had to be shipped from San Francisco by wagon, including two 200-pound glass skylights. I try to imagine how the fragile skylights survived intact over 900 miles of rough dirt roads and sometimes no roads at all.
When it was completed, it was one of the most impressive homes in Tucson. Remarkably, it still is.
Ms. Karen & I were here to see if the Royal Elizabeth is the Best Bed & Breakfast in Tucson. We had already reviewed El Presidio Inn, Adobe Rose, El Rancho Merlita, & Blue Agave.
Entering the Royal Elizabeth immediately put us in another time zone. Actually, “another century zone” would be far more accurate. Guests of the Royal Elizabeth experience something akin to “time warp”.
A tour of the old place elicits jaw-dropping oooh’s and aaah’s. Restored to its magnificent and authentic past, and furnished in period, the Royal Elizabeth somehow manages to offer all the modern conveniences without interfering with the historical experience.
With 4 beautifully appointed suites plus 2 bedrooms, The Liz is comfortable and rich in amenities. All but one of the guest quarters have their own door to the outside. Sizes range from 450 to 650 square feet. With 17’ high ceilings, they feel pleasantly spacious.
Unlike so many B&B’s that have theme-rooms, all of these guest quarters are unique and use different antiques, art, draperies, wallpaper and bold colors to reflect different eras. Each suite and room is named for a prominent prior resident.
The Innkeepers
The Royal Elizabeth is owned by Eric Oxman and BJ Gibbons, husband & wife, who acquired the property in 2010 just after they had their child. They had been residing in the Foothills but “wanted to be able to walk our daughter around without having to get in the car.”
BJ told me, “Downtown is ideal for a family with little ones. We walk to the library, the Children’s Museum, you name it. We made an offer on The Liz within 24 hours of seeing it.”
In January, 2014, they brought on-board professional innkeepers, Susan & Glenn Miesch. When I asked them what they wanted to accomplish here, Susan told me, “, “bring smiles and laughter to each and every guest.” Glenn added that their priority is to “exceed expectations.” Bringing “smiles and laughter” might come naturally to Susan. In a past life, she was once a stand up comedian.
Breakfast
Enough about the history, the architecture, and the magnificent interiors, what about breakfast?
Ms. Karen & I had the joy of dining at the long table with 5 other couples. All were delightfully intelligent, worldly, and articulate. Visiting over breakfast with fellow travelers is the joy of B&B’s. If you don’t like meeting and interacting with strangers in a strange land, B&B’s are not for you. They are, however, exactly what we enjoy most about lodging in our travels.
We started our meal with fresh juices, of course … and good, hot coffee. And then came the teaser. The citrus trio consists of three types of oranges: navel, cara cara and blood orange. All are marinated over night in agave nectar and rose water along with cinnamon. The presentation was lovely. Our fruit was served in a flower formation with a cinnamon stick as the stem. Delicious!
Then Susan & Eric served the pièces de résistance: Green Chili Strata with Chipolte-Raspberry Confit.
This was a splendid concoction mainly of baked eggs, cheeses, & green chili served in bowl made from a fresh, but crisp tortilla. Everyone at the table agreed, “Outstanding!”
We understand that they serve a different breakfast each day of the week. We don’t know if they can top the one we enjoyed, but it would be fun to find out. We don’t know any place in Tucson or Southern Arizona where you can get a more delicious, unique breakfast, served with grace and good humor.
Is The Royal Elizabeth the Best Bed and Breakfast in Tucson. Maybe. Yet, we have so thoroughly enjoyed all of the B&B’s we’ve reviewed, it’s going to be very difficult to rank them as we have Best Burgers and Best Mexican Restaurants. Stay tuned. We’ll announce the results in about a week.
For a list of more Lodging Reviews in Southern Arizona see our Lodging Review page.
For a map and reviews by area see our Lodging Maps and Reviews page.
