Editors Note: May, 2015 – Sadly Overland Trout has closed its doors. We will remove this post in due time.
November 2013 – Because it was a very rainy late fall Saturday afternoon, we didn’t expect Overland Trout to be all that busy. Apparently we had underestimated the buzz over this new restaurant in Sonoita. Fortunately, we had the foresight to make a reservation.
We had first heard about Overland Trout when we attended the Annual Fall Roundup at Empire Ranch three weeks earlier. Because Sonoita could be on the way from Tucson to Ramsey Canyon, we decided to stop for lunch there one recent Saturday, and then continue on to the Arizona Folklore Preserve where we had reservations for the 2 PM show.
Because the name of this establishment is sufficiently obscure, or at least peculiar, prior to arrival we went to Ask.com to discover its meaning.
“An overland trout is an old Western term that was used to describe pigs and hogs, or sometimes bacon.”
From this explanation, we assumed that Overland Trout serves pork. In that we were correct. Yet, to simply say they serve pork would be an understatement. They serve “out-of-this-world-delicious pork, and in a variety of dishes. I’ve never had better. And the same can confidently be said for their beef dishes.
We have yet to sample their fish dishes that, we understand, will originate in the Gulf of California, a large & important feature of our Sonoran Desert south of the International Border.
We started with their Trout Platter appetizers; essentially a trout pâté served three different ways. Quite tasty. I particularly enjoyed the trout & bacon deviled eggs.
Ms. Karen had their Ensalada Y Sopas: tomato soup surrounding an island of shrimp and a tomato & chili salad. She said the salad was very good, but the soup was too salty. Humm? This from a woman who sprinkles salt liberally on just about everything she consumes.
Eldest daughter, Andrea, had the “Hot Lunch Of The Day” special: Slow Roasted Barbacoa. It’s a braised beef with whipped potatoes, green onion & radish. Her 94-year-old grandfather (my father) had the same, only Dree substituted French fries for whipped potatoes. Both declared their “Hot Lunch Of The Day” to be exceptionally delicious. Dree shared a bite and I immediately concurred.
I had the OT Cubed Torta “Especial”: slow roasted pork, crisp bacon & sliced ham on a bolillo roll with melted cheese, fresh lettuce & green salsa. Truly, I have never in my life had a better sandwich. It came with fries, which I thought were a bit limp. I like my fries crisp. But they had been seasoned and were very good. One could ordered a different side dish, such as fresh fruit.
The portions were quite sufficient and we had neither room nor time for dessert. Next time, perhaps. In trying to put a name to the type of food served at Overland Trout, I’m going with “Borderland Modern” because their meats & produce as well as recipes come from both sides of the Arizona-Sonora border.
The back-story on Overland Trout is worth mentioning. Chef Greg LaPrad had a very large & loyal following at Quiessence in Phoenix, where he consistently demonstrated his considerable culinary skills. He also had a farm-to-table dining philosophy that has fairly recently come into vogue.
He envisioned that a pairing of his talents & philosophy with the Sonoita-Elgin area’s many wineries, farms, & ranches would create a perfect culinary marriage.
Given that Overland Trout was very busy on this very stormy afternoon, and had only been open for 3 weeks when we dined there, Mr. LaPrad’s vision may well turn out to be a delicious reality. Here you won’t be bored with yet another Mexican or Tex-Mex restaurant. The menu offerings are innovative, if a bit pricy for this region.
The interior design is a light touch of upscale rustic Western with white table clothes and cloth napkins. For example, the chairs are made of gorgeous rosewood (no padding). The ceiling looked to be created from pine poles resembling the saguaro-rib ceilings found in many Southern Arizona restaurants. The large-print photographs on the walls depict the beauty of our Southwestern borderlands.
Most tables have a fine view of the rolling grasslands and surrounding mountains.
We were pleased that Overland Trout’s wine list includes varietals from Napa-Sonoma, CA; Willamette Valley, OR; and New Zealand, because we have yet to taste a wine from the Sonoita-Elgin region that we are fond of. Apparently, we are not alone in this judgement because, to our knowledge, none of the upscale restaurants in Tucson serve them.
Overland Trout has a full bar and several signature cocktails. I tried their “Seasonal Signature Margarita”: Mount Alban Tequila, house-made sweet & sour, Cointreau, house-made pomegranate syrup. Not the usual strong lime flavor, but exceptionally delicious.
While the food and presentation were excellent, the service was a little off. We attributed this to (a) newness; and (b) a large lunchtime crowd. With time, I’m sure service will improve because these folks seem totally dedicated to excellence.
Do we wholeheartedly recommend Overland Trout for lunch or dinner in Sonoita? We do. With a little more seasoning, Overland Trout could land on our 5-Saguaro list of the Best of the Best in Southern Arizona.
Overland Trout Restaurant – Closed
3266 Arizona 82, Sonoita
(520) 455-9316
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