Sadly, the original Elvira’s is closed and is now only a warehouse for the new Tubac Elvira’s. A substantial portion of Elvira’s patrons were U.S. citizens who no longer go to Mexico because (a) Homeland Security now requires us to have a U.S. Passport if we want to re-enter and (b) fear of drug cartel violence. Yes, the world has changed and not necessarily for the better.
This new Elvira’s was opened in Tubac about two years ago by the son of the original Mexican owner. Thus, it has pedigree, and my expectations were high. Could the sequel be as good? Read More
Rubén Monroy is the owner-chef. We met him at his restaurant one early October morning in 2011. A tall, well-muscled young man. Not a physique one associates with Mexican chefs. Rubén looks like a matinee idol – a Hispanic Eroll Flynn. Patrons of Mexican food are usually over-weight. Not an ounce of fat on this guy. At first, we were suspicious. My dining companion and I wondered if he ever eats his own food. It was easy to imagine Rubén in a broad-brimmed sombrero astride a magnificent stead and silver inlaid saddle chasing villains and rescuing fair maidens.
The first thing to catch our attention as we entered Elvira’s is the decor’. Rubén has a degree in graphic arts and interior design, and his talent shows immediately. Blown glass almost everywhere. Colorful, original, whimsical, yet tasteful, not garish. Before being seated, the hostess allowed us to just walk around and look for a few minutes before being seated. Impressive.
Rubén explained that his restaurant is currently under remodeling construction, which he expects to be complete by November first (2011). He’s expanding and adding a patio.
As our initial conversation with Rubén ended, Tara introduced herself and said she would be our server. The first plates she brought to our table were fresh, hot-out-of-the-oven chips, and some really good green salsa. I just hate going to a Mexican restaurant and being served chips that have been out of the oven for more than an hour; or worse, if they come out of a bag.
We looked at our menus. This lunch was not going to be cheap. Most entrees ranged from $16 to $24. But at this point, I had no way to know if our meals would be worth the price. The lunch menu had plenty of variety; steaks to chicken to shrimp with many different sauce and seasoning options. It did not escape my attention that Elvira’s also stocks 50 different kinds of tequila. I have a hard time deciding between Patrón Reposada and Don Julio 1942. Life is difficult.
Tara returned to take our order. Molé Atocpan for me. I haven’t had good luck with molés in the past, but the description made me curious. “This molé commemorates the 75th Anniversary of the town where molé was created: raisins, chili ancho, chili pasilla, cocoa, cilantro cinnamon, and other ingredients.” My dining companion ordered the Green Chili Rellenos.
Tara brought our respective dishes. Immediately noticeable were the large portions and appetizing presentations. But the real test was going to be the taste of the molé sauce over my white chicken breasts. At too many places, it’s served light brown and thin. But Elvira’s molé was thick, dark, and rich.
I cut a bite-size piece of chicken, dipped it liberally into the molé sauce, and hoped for the best. Ah, this was the Elvira of Old Mexico I had encountered across the border so many years ago. Exquisite. Just a hint of chocolate, moderately spicy, not sweet. I inquired as to my companion’s green chili rellenos. It was all he could do to stop eating for a second and tell me they were very good.
Tara brought us a basket of hot-out-of-the-oven flour tortillas to accompany our meals. As good as those a Theresa’s Mosaic Cafe’, which I consider tops.
I motioned for Rubén to come over to our table. “This molé is delicious. Why is yours so good,” I asked. “Puebla,” he told me. The best molé paste comes from the town of Puebla near Mexico City.”
It was then that we found out that Rubén was not only a talented interior designer, but a chef trained in Mexico City. He comes from a fine Mexican restaurant family. He insists on the best ingredients. All this and more results in one of the very best Mexican restaurants in Baja Arizona. The food was great. The portions so big I could not finish mine (very rare). The wait staff: friendly, attentive, and efficient. Elvira’s in Tubac is located right off the frontage road in the new section. Highly recommended. And Thursday through Saturday nights, live music. Go. Enjoy.
Elvira’s Mexican Restaurant
2221 Interstate 19 Frontage Rd
Tubac, AZ 85646
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