( Editor’s Note. We occasionally invite guest writers to contribute to Southern Arizona Guide for the benefit of our nearly half-million annual visitors. RJ Prawdzik has been a friend for many years and has accompanied Ms. Karen and me on many adventures around Tucson and Southern Arizona. Here is her account of a recent road trip to New Mexico that complements the one we wrote about Silver City a year ago.)
Thanks to Southern Arizona Guide, my good friend Carol and I decided to take a road trip to Silver City, New Mexico in early December 2016. Only three hours from Tucson, Silver City was “new territory“ but close enough for a quick 3-day escape.
As we headed southeast, the Sonoran Desert’s saguaro sentinels and ridges of ocotillo disappeared and were replaced by a proliferation of yucca trees and agaves. Our first planned stop along I-10 was at a ghost town just a few miles south of Lordsburg, NM. After reading about the town of Shakespeare, we were eager to trod its ‘boards’, the ruts made by the Butterfield Stage Lines and stroll the streets that Billy the Kid and Johnny Ringo haunted. Unfortunately, we missed the fact that the town is only open to visitors on specified tour dates and the day we visited didn’t happen to be one of them! We felt a bit like Chevy Chase in Vacation!
Dragonfly Trail
About 45 minutes later, we arrived in Silver City and did a ‘drive-thru’ to explore the narrow, often one-way streets and gawk at the stately old brick homes. After a visit to the local history museum, we headed east on Hwy 191. Using the U.S. Forest Service directions and map, about three miles outside of town we located the turnoff for the Dragonfly Trailhead, for our afternoon hike. The trail is shared by pedestrians, equestrians and mountain bikers. The highlight of the easy, 3-mile loop trail through golden grasslands and pine trees was the petroglyph for which the trail was named.
Dinner At Diane’s
We headed back to town as the sun hung low on the western horizon hoping to find a few shops still open. It was Sunday and we didn’t have much luck, but we decided on an early dinner. Diane’s had been recommended by friends in Tucson and offered a “down-home” decor and warm welcome. Almost everything on the menu is homemade and many dishes incorporate green chilis from Hatch, NM, located just a hop, skip and jump from Silver City. The food isn’t fancy but it’s obvious that the chef takes pride in her creations. While waiting for our meals, we perused the nostalgic family photos displayed on the eatery’s walls – an entertaining blast from the past!
Bear Mountain Lodge
After dinner, we headed to Bear Mountain Lodge, a B&B a few miles outside of town. The lodge was easy to find with signs posted to point the way. Away from town, the road was extremely dark so we drove slowly to avoid colliding with the many deer that were completely comfortable taking their half of the road out of the middle!
Upon arrival, we were welcomed by one of the Inn’s four co-owners, Linda, and by the inn’s rustic charm and a roaring fire. Our room was located in a separate building with four rooms opening off a central gathering room warmed by a pellet stove and where coffee was served at 7 am each morning.
Friends had told us that breakfast was special and they were right; it surpassed our expectations and we had no room for lunch! After breakfast, we explored the inn’s Great Room. Every inch displayed unique multi-media artworks created by artists of the Southwest and featuring unusual pieces in clay. Since we had missed out on shopping and the holidays were around the corner, we were thrilled to discover that all the art pieces were for sale!
In addition to its collectible art, the lodge boasts at least three on-property hiking trails, one appropriately called the sunrise trail with spectacular views. We also discovered the kitchen staff provides carrots for guests to feed the horses stabled out back!
Gila Cliff Dwellings
Our weekend escape list of ‘must-sees’ included the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument, about a 90-minute drive north of Silver City. Portions of the road were still covered with slush but the drive was well worth it as this is one of the few remaining cliff dwellings where visitors are allowed access inside. After a short hike in the pristine air and under brilliant skies, we climbed the ladder, explored the ancient rooms, and imagined what it must have been like to live there.
City of Rocks
Afterward, we traveled to the City of Rocks State Park, about 25 miles southwest of Silver City. This State Park is primarily a campground but has a visitor center and allows day-use/hiking. Climbing among the “Jurass
ic Park” sized boulders might be compared to enjoying a jungle gym built for adults! We spent nearly two hours scrambling up, around, and through acres of giant boulders, not knowing exactly where any path might lead. Camping here would be a riot, especially with kids!
Buckhorn Saloon & Opera House
At the end of the day, although Bear Mountain Lodge does offer dinner with advance reservations, we opted to dine out at the Buckhorn Saloon & Opera House in Pinos Altos. A word of caution — don’t go there imagining the opulent opera house scene from Pretty Woman. In the spirit of the old west, ‘opera house’ was tantamount to saloon cum brothel with or without other bawdy entertainment. Upon arrival, a fire roared in the oversized hearth and a suspect ‘guard’ kept watch over the ladies’ retiring room.
Once again, we were welcomed by a blazing fire in the hearth and a friendly SNMU student waitress. The menu had hearty old-west options but we opted for the salads, freshly baked bread, and Hatch green chili soup. Good to the last drop!
Catwalk National Scenic Trail
Our last day, we headed northwest 60 miles from Silver City on Hwy 180 to visit the Catwalk National Scenic Trail we had heard so much about. Part of the U.S. Forest Service system, the one-mile trail along Whitewater Creek hugs the steep canyons walls, much of it is suspended 12 feet or more above the gurgling creek. The trail follows the route of an 1890s pipeline built to provide water to the local ore processing plant at the base of the canyon.
Remains of the plant’s stone footing can be seen from the parking area. The first section of the trail is easy (wheelchair accessible) and leads to hidden pools and waterfalls that, in the heat of a high desert summer, would be quite welcome and refreshing. There is a $3 daily fee per vehicle, but free with a National Park annual pass admission.
To Mogollon or Not
Our last planned stop before heading home was another ghost town located about nine miles up Hwy 159. Up is the keyword here. The narrow country road leading to Mogollon twists and climbs steeply but after traveling nine miles we had to turn back — somehow, somewhere, we missed the DOT sign indicating the road was closed for construction at mile seven!
Udder Delight
To assuage our disappointment, we made an impromptu stop at Udder Delight, a charming roadside shop featuring locally produced skincare products made from goat’s milk, rich in lactic acid making it a natural exfoliant!
Having missed a few ‘must-see’s, we now we have a reason to return and will time our trip to coincide with Silver City’s annual Clay Fest (verifying dates and times beforehand!)
